Mana Pools: Hip, Hippo, Hooray!

 

        Mana Pools National Park, Hippo and Zambezi River with Zambia Mountains in the distance, 2023.11.04
  Friday, November 3, 2023, Bruce and I drove to the Mana Pools National Park. We had booked a 3-day vacation for my birthday back in October, but this was the first weekend we didn't have church plans and could go. The roads are a little sketchy, especially after Chinhoy to Karoi then Makuti, Magongora, and finally the Nyakasikana gate into the Mana Pools Nyamepi Office. It actually took 8 hours to get to the Mana Pool Safari Lodge. Six hours to the main park gate, then two hours on a dirt road in the park. Many overweight loaded trucks are along the pot-hole-ridden narrow 2 lanes on the "highway" there. We had to "overtake" or pass the trucks; which struggled to make it up the weaving hills. Because there is no shoulder on the roads and the edges are all jagged with potholes or ruts it makes it very dangerous to not get a blown tire. Taxes definitely are not going to road repair or maintenance!  Bruce maneuvered quite nicely. We stopped at The Lion's Den, between Chinhoyi and Karoi (about 1/2 way mark) for some biltong (jerky) and a steak burger for lunch.                                                           The Lion's Den Stop, unique patio dining with a tree house!

They had a nice garden, hut, and tree house for your dining pleasure. Aubrey, from L-Electron on the temple site, told us to be sure to stop there for snacks on the way past Chinhoyi. It was a pleasant surprise with clean bathrooms-- an added plus. There was even a tree house in which Bruce had to climb!

We finally arrived at the first park office, Marangora, by 2:00 p.m. thinking we made good time. Little did we know, it would be another 2 hours of dirt roads and weaving in and out of trees and muddy puddles to find the lodge. Always an adventure in Africa.    We went down "baobab" avenue seeing a lot of these majestic giants. We love their wide thick trunks; they'd make a great "Keebler" elf home to make Bruce's favorite graham crackers.

Our booking agent told us to get instructions to the Mana Pool Safari Lodge, once we made it to the Park's Office to pay the fees. The park ranger was new and had no idea which way we should go. None of the signs mentioned the lodge we were staying at. Luckily we found some friendly campers, who knew the right direction, upstream and we prayed we'd find it before dark. They told us the 14 km. would take us about 45 minutes with the diversions of dirt roads.

     At the Nyamepi Office, we paid our park fees. I walked near the back of the office and thought I saw a statue of a hippo by the clothesline. It moved as I got within 30 feet of an enormous live hippopotamus! All the Zimbabweans we meet warn us about how dangerous hippos are and how more people die from an aggressive hippo, which can bite you in half, than a lion or crocodile. Luckily he didn't feel threatened and I got some great photos. We later were informed they can run very fast on those short fat legs and travel about 40 kilometers per day while grazing. Wow, eating all that grass can make you fat! We saw hundreds of hippos out in the river beds too. They are also called "river horses" and can hold their breath for up to 5 minutes underwater. We'd spot about 10-15 of them in clumps in the water.  At night we heard their loud "snorts" through the air and also had one wondering through our camp. Hippos are the third largest land mammals next to elephants and rhinos.  

Finally, by 4:00 p.m. only 2 hours past our planned arrival we made it. The staff was eagerly awaiting our arrival and made us feel very welcome. The hosts had sandwiches made up since we'd missed lunch and they showed us our lovely chalet. It was very tastefully built around many wild and ancient trees with commanding views of the Zambezi River, breathtaking sweeping flood plains, and the beautiful majestic mountains of Zambia in view. Our "tent" or thatched chalet provided a beautiful deck with a  picturesque view of nearby game and wildlife.  We could see many hippos in the distance grazing on the flood plains. Other vibrant wildlife frequented the area including, elephants, water bucks, hyenas, impalas, warthogs, cape buffalo, and perhaps a lion or two (although we didn't see any cats this trip). 

Our beautiful thatched "chalet" for spending some romantic nights amidst the wildlife, 2023.11.03-05, Mana Pools Safari Lodge

Our safari guide, Dean, was ready to take us out in the jeep to go "spot" some animals! I told him we really wanted to see a lion. He said there were about 15 "cats" in the area and we'd go look for some. He and all the safari guides got super excited to go show us the "painted dogs" in the area. These wild dogs are endangered and rare to see. They reminded me of hyenas and we got to spot about 13 dogs in a pack that evening. The highlight was seeing many elephants including, two different families with 3-month-old babies and a 3-year-old with its mother. The African elephants are larger and have tusks. A few elephants in the area, one named Boswald, can actually get up on their hind legs to reach the tallest tree branches. We didn't get to see this, but it's a rare find in the Mana Pool region.

Andersons are off for an adventure to see what nature will provide this safari trip, 2023.11.03

    We had a family of 6 elephants, including a little 2-3 month-old, right past our jeep on the dirt road. We watched silently as they paraded past. I love elephants and their majestic and maternal nature. 2023.11.03 One little elephant, about 3 months old, had a lame leg. You could tell he wouldn't place weight on it. Dean said it might heal on its own but the park rangers don't try to repair it. Another fun fact is elephants can pump all of their blood through their ears in about 20 minutes. That's why they fan their ears to cool off and pump the blood. Elephants can live about 50-60 years. The teenagers can't fight off the "bull" male elephant who makes claim to the "Cow" to have mating rites. They don't get to reproduce with a female until they are about 30 years old and can fight off the other bull elephant.

Dean knew all the names of the birds. We saw many nests and geese, cranes, herons, eagles, sparrows, turtle doves, etc. He knew everyone because his dad was really into birds and taught him all the names. It was interesting to learn about the birds of Africa. 

A rare find seeing "painted dogs", these wild dogs were in a pack of 13 and are on the endangered list.

We felt safer that Dean carried a rifle. He had us travel in single file and told us not to run if a lion charged us. We didn't even get to see a lion; only paw prints. Darn! Here is the Mana Pools Safari Lodge descriptive write-up on their website:

    "One of the highlights of Mana Pools Safari Lodge is its proximity to the Ruckomeshi river, which serves as a lifeline for the wildlife in the region. It attracts a wide array of animals, including elephants, kudu, buffalo, wild dogs, and even lions. You may be fortunate enough to witness these magnificent creatures meandering through the camp, as they quench their thirst in front of the lodge. This close encounter with nature is an awe-inspiring experience that truly immerses you in the untamed beauty of Mana Pools.

In addition to the remarkable wildlife sightings, Mana Pools Safari Lodge offers a range of activities to further enhance your safari adventure. You can embark on guided game drives, where knowledgeable guides will navigate the park’s diverse landscapes, providing you with insights into the wildlife and their habitats. Walking safaris are also available, allowing you to explore the park on foot and truly connect with the environment.

After a day of exhilarating adventures, you can unwind at the lodge’s cozy and comfortable accommodations. The chalets provide a tranquil retreat, combining natural elements with modern comforts. Falling asleep to the sounds of the African wilderness and waking up to another day of discovery is a rejuvenating experience that will stay with you long after your stay at Mana Pools Safari Lodge. Whether you’re an avid wildlife enthusiast, a nature lover, or someone seeking a unique and immersive safari experience, Mana Pools Safari Lodge offers a remarkable opportunity to connect with the natural wonders of Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park." Mana Pool's Safari Lodge website

    That night after a nice chicken dinner and dessert to candlelight; we were escorted back to our chalet. The guard searched his flashlight along the path and in the trees looking for predators. We saw a hyena both nights right by our chalet.

    The next day, Nov. 4th, Saturday, we rose early had a continental quick breakfast, and went for a safari drive with Dean at 0600. This time we went to an area where two cape buffalo carcasses were being eaten by vultures. There were 5 dead buffalo reported and the park rangers feared it was possible anthrax. We were hoping to see our lions in the area dining on the dead buffalo. We saw a lot of vultures eating on the carcasses and in the trees above; no lions! We did see these lion paw prints:

    We drove to all 4 Mana Pools. You could see hippos and crocs in the lurking water at the "Long" and "Green" pools. Once your eyes adjusted you realized there were crocodiles all over the shore lines and in the shallow waters. Don't go swimming here!

    After our morning safari, we had breakfast, omelets, around 10:30 a.m. then rested by the pool side. It was hot, probably 95-100 degrees outside. We enjoyed dipping in the pool and laying out in the sunshine for a few peaceful hours. After a nap and lunch, we were ready for an evening safari from 4:00 -6:30 p.m. Then another nice dinner and early bedtime. We saw hyenas, elephants, water buck, and a hippo lurking in our campsite and viewed off our front deck.

Dead cape buffalo carcass; the rangers found 5 dead buffalo and wondered if there was an anthrax epidemic. We felt protected since Dean carried a gun and told us to walk single file. He said if a lion charges to stand still; sure!

This unique "sausage tree" or Kigelia Africana, Worsboom grown up to 25 meters in height and grows long "sausage" strings or elongated peduncles handing from it's branches. They were all over the safari. Bruce picked up a fallen pod and it was very hard; it might injury someone if it were to fall on you. If broken open the soft webbed fruit inside can be used for cleaning like a sponge.

Elephants on parade! This family of six was fun to watch as it marched right past our jeep.

 

We had an enjoyable, relaxing time. We were warned about malaria but didn't see even one mosquito. We did get at least 2 stings from Tsetse flies; hopefully no "African Sleeping Sickness" in the next week characterized by severe headache, fever, chills, aches and pains, and I suppose sleepiness.

Sunday morning we went on a walking safari down to the river bed and back about 3 km. We saw a lot of hippos in the river. We came back early, had breakfast, and headed out by 0900 a.m. Excited to get an early start home to avoid traffic and traveling in the dark.

    We really enjoyed the staff at the lodge and shared many Books of Mormon and toy wooden cars (donated by Eyes4Zim) for all their children. They loved it! The waiter and maids were so cute to show us how they folded a "lady" napkin and elephant towels for our beds. As we said goodbye, Willard, our waiter, told me he had a birthday cake surprise for "boss"! He brought out a box with an entire cake in it and said, "Don't tell him until you get back to Harare." He thought it was Bruce's birthday and not mine. So sweet; it was a homemade cake, good but heavy, we donated to the Judds for their missionary leadership meeting.

All the staff wanted to get in on the free Book of Mormon and toy cars we gave out. and the selfie photos! 2023.11.05